Food, fuel and tourism
I took a week off recently to be a tourist in Sierra Leone (it helped that I had a friend from school coming over to visit too). SL is beautiful- look at any pictures that you can and a beautiful country to be a tourist in. We spent time at the beaches, lazing at a couple of pools, tramping through the bush, visiting the Chimpanzees, and going to Banana islands just off the tip of the peninsula. We also went to the National Museum and spent time ‘discussing’ prices in the craft markets.
The infrastructure in Sierra Leone isn’t really set up to receive tourists, from the airport itself (which has improved markedly while I’ve been here), the chaos of getting out of the airport, picking up luggage and getting over to Freetown itself are probably worthy of a short story. Despite making arrangements for my friend to be met at the airport, booking them onto a bus that would bring them to my door; it took as long to get from the airport to my house as the flight from Heathrow to Lungi took! Arriving at 2:30am in the morning (after having gotten to Sierra Leone in the early evening) is not a way to encourage people to come and visit a second time and may make some travellers prefer to turn round and go back home). The situation has eased slightly since my friend arrived; the hovercraft has begun operations again, which saves a bit of time getting over from the airport, but still means it’s a bit of a hassle.
I have expounded before about the beauty of SL, its beaches, the mountains, the views etc, so I won’t do so again except to say that it is gorgeous and currently fairly unspoilt by any developments, so now is definitely a good time to come and see it.
The food and fuel price rises that have been going on throughout the world continue to impact Sierra Leone. One of the figures I have seen recently (tho’ I can’t vouch for its accuracy) says that the average monthly wage in Sierra Leone is about 150,000 Leones (just over 26 GBP and 50USD). A large sack of rice (that might feed an average family for a month) costs about 120,000 Leones. This means people having fairly small portions (especially considering the amount of hard labour in a hot climate that people do here). On top of this, most people would also want to purchase salt and chillies (the latter being an integral part of the Sierra Leonean diet) and would have palm oil splashed (less and less liberally) over the top. If you add in a smidgeon or protein (which most people can’t afford), then you’re getting closer to a balanced diet. In order to pad out the rice and make it last longer, many people will add cassava, sweet potatoes and garri to their meals, although the nutritional balance stills needs improvement. But this is just food- so basically, a wage (and many people here are more likely to be casual workers and so may not have a definite wage coming in every month) would cover enough food for the family for the month. The other costs that aren’t met are: rent, clothes, school supplies, any emergency medical treatment, travel, fuel and anything else- I’ve tried to only mention the essentials here. It’s in places like Sierra Leone that the rising food prices push more people back into poverty as they grapple with trying to balance getting enough nutrients with all the other essential expenditures- I haven’t even mentioned the issue of getting clean water here or disposal of waste.
Life at the ground level in SL is tough, really tough. I was chatting to a friend involved in children’s medicine here- they are seeing more and more children who are malnourished and as a result open to many other types of infections. What makes it even more heart rending is that the medical facilities in SL are so needy that some children who in the West would be in high dependency units being treated as outpatients here.
It’s an age-old cycle and breaking it is really hard (ok- I know it's really simplistic, but it shows basically how the cycle can work):
- First, you don't get enough to eat (or a balanced diet with a good nutritional intake) for whatever reason (too many mouths, prices are too high, money needed for treating a family member in hospital etc.)
- Then you become ill (meaning more money needs to be spent on medical treatment if possible)
- Because of the illness you are unable to work/or at the very least your productivity goes down (since in many situations in the developing world your wages depend on how much you produce e.g. breaking stones, carrying headloads, picking/tending agriculture etc)
- You receive lower wages
- You are unable to buy as much food/ have a nutritionally balanced diet
- You don’t get enough to eat,
- You become ill…
And the cycle goes on, as I said, this is a really simplistic version and lots of other factors can play into it. One of the other variants (which can be added into this cycle) is the education of children- you want to educate them so that they have a better chance in the future; but if they don’t have enough food then they can’t concentrate in school, so they don’t do well and not only do they not go up the economic ladder, but people feel it’s a waste to send children to school. Or, due to the need to earn more money for the family to survive now, children are taken out of education so that they don’t have opportunities to learn/improve in the future. It’s a difficult cycle and very hard to break out of, but it is possible, with the right resources in the right places at the right time.
This is already turning out to be pretty long, but I’ll quickly mention about fuel prices. All fuel prices are set by the government at the same level; the cost has gone up about 80 pence per gallon (4500 Leones) since I’ve been in SL and although the fuel prices are much, much lower than in Europe, this is a pretty big increase for everyone here to try and manage. It’s an inconvenience for those who can afford it but a real problem for those who can’t. Small shops that rely on small (and highly inefficient generators) in order to run their businesses when there’s no national power (NPA) are struggling even more than they used to and people who have generators in their homes may now find it difficult to have light at nights when there’s no NPA. This doesn’t so much impact the very poor but does mean those who thought they’d slowly worked their way out of desperate poverty are being pushed back into it. The other area where the fuel prices impact people are the costs of the taxi’s and podapodas (minibuses); these run on (semi-)set routes for a fixed cost, you can go further in the podapodas but you can usually get the taxi’s to deviate from their routes to drop you at a specific point. Lots of people in Freetown use both taxis and podapodas to get to and from work each day, but the cost in fuel means the set cost of a journey in a taxi or podapoda has now increased (there’s no meters and if you’re going in a taxi off a set route you need to discuss vigorously about the price). When I arrived it was 800 Leones per journey, it is now 1000Leones per journey, which again isn’t that much from a Western perspective, but is a huge increase for people who rely on this cheap transport to get them around, since there’s no public transport system here so an increase in the cost of travel of 25% in less than 2 years is pretty huge.
Labels: beach, chimps, food, fuel, power, roads, taxis, tourism, traffic
At the chimp sanctuary
Three chimps in a tree
Chimp posing for the camera
Even better on film- the slow, but well-choreographed walk of three chimps in step ;-)
Feeding time at the ...sanctuary (please note the one who's playing with his food!)
"Can I have some of that? You know you want to give me some"
It is sometime since I last posted- life has been busy and flat during that time and I also think I’ve managed to avoid a full week in work (due to public holidays, Easter and visitors) for the past month. Anyway, I forgotten far too much of what I have done in that period (a problem of not posting regularly).
I will tell you about the Chimpanzee sanctuary that I visited recently, with visitors from the UK. I spoke to a friend afterwards who said that he had only taken 20mins to go round- I’m not sure tho’ because we took at least and hour and a half- maybe we just asked more questions or something.
The visits have to be undertaken at certain times and by appointment only- one of the reasons is that the ‘road’ leading up to the sanctuary isn’t particularly wide and you wouldn’t really want to meet people coming the other way if you could possibly avoid it. Also, the visits are carefully arrange around feeding times, otherwise- due to the large size of the enclosures, you’d be unlikely to see many of the chimps who know when feeding time is due and gather at particular points in the enclosures.
The chimps themselves were brilliant- some were particularly keen on posing and showing off for the camera, whereas others were happier throwing stones at the visitors. The sanctuary itself has been open for about 10years and has been in national and international media for reasons good and bad. The work that is done there is amazing- rescuing chimps that would otherwise be abandoned or badly treated, or possibly served as bush meat, introducing them into family groups and giving them increasing freedom. Despite the ravages inflicted on the centre (food, money and medicines were stolen by the RUF) during the war, the workers stayed on and managed to get food etc for the chimps from locals who had also faced the pillaging of the rebels. One of the most famous chimps was a rare albino, she had white hair and one blue eye and one brown. Unfortunately she died after an accident in the jungle but her picture is still lovingly displayed at the centre.
There was a break-out from the centre in 2006 and the alpha male is still loose, but the rest of the chimps have returned and the group that escaped still flourishes- some of the chimps pull faces and do acrobatics on request.
On other notes, we’ve have rumbles signifying the beginning of the rainy season. Most particularly on the night of the 2nd May, the rain was so loud it actually woke me up! Our house has a tin roof and so I assume that those in the apartment above us get a lot more noise when it rains and (naturally) I’d never heard the rain on the roof before, there was obviously a lot of rain that night because the sound woke me up. The next morning- driving to work- the view over the city was clearer than I’ve seen it in months, quite spectacular. Anyway, we haven’t had rain since then, so maybe the wet season hasn’t really arrived and that was just a foretaste, but when it rains here, it really rains.
The 27th April celebrates Sierra Leone’s independence, although very little actually happens on the 27th itself because (as of last year and possibly pre-war), there’s a large lantern parade through the town. Some friends went to see this, tho’ due to the usual amount of Sierra Leonean punctuality, by 3am they’d only seen one float- I’m told there were more about later on but I was at an independence day party arranged by the Spanish contingent of the ex pat community. Hence Independence Day is usually seen as a time to sleep off the exigencies of the previous night in order to return to work on the 28th- although this year the 28th was a Saturday, meaning a wonderfully long weekend!
Labels: chimps, rain, water
